All Clad Steamer
In the wake of Florence of Arabia
Dahabiyas are sailing boats but these days have a dedicated tugboat for light-wind days, replacing the rowers of yesteryear.
They also have a legion of devotees. Stone reliefs in the temples dotted along the banks of the Nile show the pharoahs and their gods in dahabiya-like vessels; they were a status symbol for the Turkish pashas, who typically had one such boat for themselves and one for their harem.
In the 19th century, wealthy Europeans would hire a dahabiya for a leisurely three-month trip from Cairo to Aswan.
Many such travellers waxed lyrical about their voyages. Even at the outset of her journey, Florence Nightingale was a fan. "We are really off in our dahabieh," she wrote, "they say it is the best boat on the river."
We quickly join the dahabiya aficionado ranks when we board the 16-passenger, 39m Malouka in Esna, about 50km south of Luxor. A sense of peace descends as we set sail and the feeling prevails for the next five days as we travel to Aswan. Our dahabiya sits low in the water so we see only the bucolic Egypt of date palms and sugar cane, buffaloes grazing and young boys goading their donkeys to canter, plus the occasional 3000-year-old temple.
The busy road, only a few hundred metres beyond the riverbank, is invisible and inaudible. Enrique Cansino, our host and one of the three partners in Nour El Nil, the company that owns Malouka, is adamant there will be no daily timetable. "What time is breakfast?" one passenger asks. "Whenever you wake," he replies.
Nour El Nil operates four dahabiyas. All were purpose-built in Alexandria under the close supervision of Mamdouh, Cansino and his wife Eleonore's Egyptian business partner.
Nour El Nil is a hands-on family affair. Eleonore was responsible for the fit-outs. A French decorator, her style is best described as shabby chic, with chandeliers sourced from flea markets and Egyptian-themed knick-knacks.
Our cabin's spaciousness is enhanced by its all-white decor and floor-to-ceiling mirrors. The red stripe of the sails is repeated on the soft furnishings throughout the boat, creating a comfortably elegant effect.
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He typically chooses nice, new-looking pans—he favors All-Clad at home—that can double as serving dishes. Ultimately, Mr. Keller says, the key is to apply the fashion adage of "less is more" to food presentation at home. "The common problem that
There the galabiya-clad crew, all young men recruited from villages near Mamdouh's, welcome us back with date cakes and lemon juice. In the late afternoon they gather on the stern to play draughts; we ensconce ourselves on the divans to watch the
At midnight the Aran steamer Cathair Na Gaillimhe, under Captain William Goggin, also waited in the roadstead to give assistance as soon as possible, and to take on board the survivors from the Knute Nelson to take into the harbour.
Known as Chicago's Second Regiment Armory in the early 1900s, the Harpo building was used as a morgue after the Eastland steamer capsized in the Chicago River in 1915, claiming more than 800 lives. There's talk that the place has been haunted ever
Pete Wilson and a group of UNR and UC Davis scientists, were scheduled to tour the lake aboard a large steamer about 9 am that Sunday morning. I had spent the night at the lake and had arrived at the Hyatt about 6 am to receive my press credentials and
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